The interior of Suriname is a captivating place: expansive jungle, brilliant night skies, and friendly people. Most tourists who visit don't need to think about transportation to this remote place: all-inclusive tours, which usually come in at around €150 per person per night, include a private bus from Paramaribo and then the river boat from Atjoni. If you instead want to do this journey independently, it is a rewarding, inexpensive, and surprisingly easy process. Here's everything I wish I'd have found online before setting off:

Is there a bus from Paramaribo to Atjoni?

Yes. It is operated by Nationaal Vervoer Bedrijf or NVB. These are easily-identifiable by the yellow and red decals on the front of the bus.

Our battered chariot arriving into Atjoni. NVB busses sport red and yellow decals, making them easy to distinguish from private busses.

How much does it cost?

$150 SRD each way. Cash only, and the driver will give change. You will receive a paper ticket confirming this price.

Where is the stop in Paramaribo?

Saramacca Street, just past the Central Market. More specifically, the intersection of Saramacca and Prinsen Streets.

What about in Atjoni?

The bus will drop you off right outside the port.

The bus will drop you off directly outside this waiting area at Atjoni Port.

Are there any stops along the way?

Yes. My bus from Paramaribo made two comfort stops: one at a large supermarket about half an hour into the journey, where you can purchase supplies, and another, shorter stop in Brownsweg. On the return from Atjoni the bus did not stop other than to drop off passengers along the way.

The bus from Paramaribo stopped here for around 20 minutes. The supermarket is well stocked, and there are free toilets.

What is the schedule?

The bus from Paramaribo left at 8 a.m. exactly, and the return from Atjoni left at 11:30 a.m. exactly. On both trips the bus was waiting over an hour before departure: you can reserve a seat by placing something (I used a plastic bag) on it. There are other busses, however these two line up perfectly with the riverboats. Busses run every day including Sunday, despite what the minibus drivers (who wanted $500 for the same route) tried to say.

How long does it take?

About 3.5 hours.

What’s it like?

Basic. Seating is four across: a lone seat by the left window, two seats by the right, and then a fold-down seat to fill the gap between them when the bus gets full. There is also a passenger seat next to the driver: this is the only seat on board with a seatbelt, and also gives great views. There is no air conditioning but windows provide plenty of fresh air, and the driver will play music at a reasonable volume.

It isn't pretty, but you'll want to be looking outside not in anyway.

What about bags?

Large bags go at the back: pass them through the rear-most window when you board, and the driver will pass them back to you the same way when you get off. It’s a good idea to use a small day bag for water and snacks, as your bags will not be accessible during the journey. Locals will bring food, household goods, appliances…you name it, if it fits, the bus will take it.

What is Atjoni like?

Not unpleasant. There are multiple Chinese supermarkets; this competition means prices are in line with Paramaribo, and you could stock up in Atjoni if you so choose. There is a shaded waiting area, several restaurants, and toilets which cost $10 SRD to use (there are also trees…these are free). There is LTE cell service here. You’ll probably have a few hours here between your boat and bus: grab a cold Parbo ($70) and enjoy the wait.

Not the worst place to watch the world go by.

What about the riverboats?

I paid $500 SRD each way between Atjoni and Botopasi. My bus arrived around 11:30 a.m., and the last public boats of the day leave at 2 p.m. Depending on where you stay a boat will pick you up sometime between 6:30-8:30 a.m., which is plenty of time to catch the return bus. Just tell one of the boatmen where you are going, and he will direct you to the right canoe.