The Big Guy himself doesn't get to travel this comfortably…though reindeer food is probably less expensive.

Introduction

Rovaniemi may well be the most popular place you’ve never heard of. Its claim to fame, among Finns at least, is being the home of Santa Claus—and they sure play this up for tourists. During my three days there, I got a ride on Santa’s official bus (choosing that over Santa’s official taxi), visited Santa’s official McDonald’s (formerly the world’s northernmost), where I got my fill of fast food so walked past not one but two Santa kebab shops, located between dozens of Santa’s favourite gift shops. So of course, when it came time to leave Rovaniemi, I found myself aboard Santa’s own train.

Tickets, Schedule, and Which Cabin to Book

Finnish rail operator VR operates slightly different schedules on weekdays and weekends, but you’ll always have your choice between at least two day trains and two overnight trains. The VR website is intuitive and available in English; there’s no need to pay more to book through a middleman, and checking schedules and prices is easy (there’s even an airline-style “best fare” calendar).

Day trains will be faster, taking just over eight hours, with overnight trains having much more padding in their timetable to allow for a convenient departure and arrival time. I chose train 264, leaving Rovaniemi at 16:46 and arriving 14 and a half hours later at 07:22—the longest journey time on this route, which arrives after another night train that departs more than an hour later. There isn’t much to do in Helsinki at 6am on a Sunday though, so I opted for the more leisurely timetable.

VR schedules night trains for comfort over speed: plenty of padding in the schedule gives passengers more time to sleep, while arriving into Helsinki at an early but not anti-social hour.

Purchasing tickets is easy, with a PDF document sent to the email address you provide which you show to the on-board inspector. International cards are accepted with no hidden fees. Book here: https://www.vr.fi/en

One night train a day in each direction continues past Rovaniemi to Kemijärvi, and you can also book bus connections to destinations further north through VR.

Bookings for long-distance day trains open six months in advance, and night trains ten months ahead. Book as early as you can: these trains are incredibly popular among Finns and tourists alike, and fares rise with demand. During peak travel times (around Christmas, and on winter weekends) expect the cheapest fares to be gone within minutes of bookings opening: writing this article, fares for a night train ten months away are already double the cheapest possible fare.

Book as early as you possibly can: fares only go up after opening for booking...and they can really go up.

When searching fares, VR helpfully lets you check a box to display fares for night train cabins instead of the base, seat-only fare. It is possible to make this journey with a seat-only reservation, and you can also pay extra to guarantee an empty seat next to you for the whole journey.

I paid €99 for a lower-floor cabin for two, booking a month in advance for a weekend train in peak ski season—pretty good in my view, considering fares doubled the next day. The cheapest fare available for a night train cabin between Helsinki and Rovaniemi is €79, rising to an eye-watering high of €324 for the exact same cabin.

Note that unlike other European sleeper train operators, booking individual berths is not possible: whether travelling on your own or as a group, the cabin(s) you book are for your exclusive use. At the lower price points this is exceptional value, though once fares rise into the hundreds of euros it would be nice to have the option to save a lot of money at the sacrifice of a bit of privacy by sharing a cabin.

Whatever cabin you book, it will only be for you and your party: great for families, not so great for solo travellers on a budget.

VR operates two kinds of sleeper wagons: older, single-deck sleepers with three beds per compartment, and newer double-decker sleepers with two-bed compartments, some of which can combine into adjoining four-bed suites. On the double-decker wagons, upper floor berths have an en suite with shower while lower-deck berths do not.

The cost for three- or two-bed compartments without en suite are the same. VR will automatically assign you a cabin, filling the train from back to front as bookings come in. You can, and should, change this online free of charge: VR has an excellent, detailed train map showing you which compartments are booked, and the composition of the train. Unless you are travelling as a group of three, the two-bed compartments will be more comfortable for solo travellers and couples: VR makes up all the beds in a compartment regardless of how many people are booked into it, so the three-bed cabins feel cramped even travelling solo.

Some compartments are marked pet-friendly, so avoid booking these unless travelling with a furry friend. Likewise one cabin is marked accessible.

Pay attention to which cabin you are assigned, your experience and comfort can vary based on your location within the train.

The location of the restaurant car is also clearly noted when booking. This car is very popular well into the evening, so be warned if booking a cabin close by: you’ll get a lot of foot traffic outside your door.

I was pleased with my choice: a lower-deck, two-bed cabin towards the front of the train, much better than the older three-bed compartment I was initially assigned.

What About Flying?

I wanted to make this journey by train both ways, but the price was just absurd: even being flexible with my travel dates, there was no night train availability from Helsinki north for less than €129.

Trains get you up close and personal with incredible scenery, but flying also offers stunning, sweeping vistas like the 45-minute sunrise we experienced flying north.

Finnair operates five flights a day between HEL and RVN, with economy light fares starting around €60. During the winter Rovaniemi is the second-busiest airport in Finland with flights across Europe, including low-cost carriers. Looking at options, it would have been cheaper for me to fly to Berlin, spend a night, then fly on to Rovaniemi than to take the direct night train.

A diversion to Oulu doubled our travel time, and meant we got to see the same landscapes illuminated beneath a clear blue sky.

Travelling as a couple or group, the highest fares are a bit more reasonable: even €324 split three ways could work out cheaper than flying and two hotel rooms. But for solo travellers, VR’s dynamic pricing, and the cabin-only booking model, makes flying a very attractive option most of the time, which is a shame.

I ended up spending an extra night in Tallinn and flying with Finnair via Helsinki, with both the hotel night, flight, cabin bag charge, and airport transportation coming in at around €10 less than the night train.

An early-morning start from Tallinn. Two planes, four airports, and one diversion still got me to Rovaniemi quicker and cheaper (even with a hotel night) then the cheapest overnight cabin VR was selling when I went to book.

All that to say: night trains in Finland often price out solo travellers. While I enjoyed my trip on the Santa Claus Express it is in no way worth hundreds of euros, and for such a climate-fixated country I was surprised how much more attractive flying was compared to the baby-seal-friendly train.

Station and Departure

Rovaniemi station is not a pleasant place to be. There are no where near enough seats, and not even enough room for all passengers to stand inside. Bathrooms are paid, and can only be unlocked by calling a Finnish phone number. No WiFi is available, and the handful of luggage lockers were full. Despite being fairly close to the city centre, Rovaniemi station is only served by a private bus operator on the same route (and for the same fare) that goes to the airport. These busses are timed to coincide with flights, but not trains. Rideshares are available, but expect to pay at least €15 for the five-minute ride into town.

Rovaniemi station is not fit for the demand it sees. But then again, neither is its airport.

I was able to make the 20-minute walk with my carry-on. Along the way I passed several groups lugging large bags…they were not radiating Christmas cheer.

Try not to get to the station more than 20 minutes before your train is due to depart, unless you’re bringing a car with you on the train (in which case, arrival instructions are communicated by VR).

Unsurprisingly considering the demand, this was a long train: five car carriers, three older single-decker sleeper cars, one double-decker seating car, four double-decker sleepers, and a restaurant car. Eight cargo carriers were attached when I arrived, but were decoupled before we departed.

VR's car transport service is a popular option—all the more reason to book early if you'd like to use it.

Your ticket will show your assigned wagon, and numbers are clearly visible on all entry doors.

Since the station is so small, most passengers were waiting outside for doors to be opened. Twenty-five minutes before departure, the waiting train moved about 50 metres—causing the lucky passengers crammed inside the station to rush outside, and those of us already standing next to our assigned wagon to shuffle along.

Santa's gaze mocked passengers waiting outside their assigned car as the train began to move away.

Doors were opened 20 minutes before scheduled departure, and I had no trouble finding my assigned cabin. Tickets will display each berth number: in my case, I had 105 and 106. These are also clearly displayed outside each cabin.

We left right on time, and would stay on time for the full journey.

The Cabin

Passengers will find a key card inserted in their cabin door, with another identical key card waiting inside. Cabins lock automatically when shut, and there is a deadbolt that can be fastened from the inside when sleeping. A third key unlocks the shower cabin, and is marked with a shower symbol.

The washbasin folds out, with light switch for the vanity and a power point for shavers and other toiletry accessories mounted at the side. This is also where the spare room key and single shower key for each cabin are stored.

Both beds were made up despite me travelling alone. Each bed had a bedsheet, duvet, pillow, small water bottle, and hand towel. I, optimistically, expected these hand towels to be for use with the washbasin equipped in each cabin, and to find human-sized towels available in the shower cabin…this was not the case.

These newer sleeper cabins are well designed: two hangers were waiting, to be used on your choice of four coat hooks. A small washbasin is revealed by opening the swinging door next to the window; inside were two bars of soap and five paper cups. The water on board is not drinkable.

This space-saving design hides the sink when you're not using it.

A very hard, very uncomfortable seat folds down from the wall; I tried sitting on this for a bit, but ended up using it as a footrest and sitting on the bed. A small table is located next to the window, which comes equipped with a blackout blind.

The dual-berth cabins are well-designed and functional, though lack a comfortable seating option—I ended up lounging on the bed. A better seat by the window would have been nice.

The cabin walls are paper thin, and upon boarding I heard my neighbours on both sides settling in. Conversations at normal volume are fully audible between walls. There are quiet hours on board, which were respected by my fellow passengers. While the cabins feel very private, keep in mind anything you say or do will be shared with strangers around you.

Each bed has its own reading light, and there is also a light above the washbasin. Beds also have their own power outlet, with a convenient storage cubby for holding phones, books, and the like. There is a radio, and the train attendant can provide headphones if you’d like to listen. The clock next to each bed has an alarm function, though I just used my phone. If you’re travelling all the way to Helsinki, you’ll be woken up by announcements before arrival anyway.

Next to the head of each bed you'll find a reading light, European power outlet, and alarm clock.

A limited room service menu is available, which some moron had vandalised. You’re much better off walking to the restaurant car, both for the ambiance and the more extensive options, including alcohol. You can also, as I did, bring food and drink on board. Personal alcohol is not permitted on Finnish trains, but this is not enforced within cabins and I had no issues.

Meal service to your cabin is available, but you're much better off going to the restaurant car for more options, including alcohol, and more space. All prices in euros.

Two washrooms are available at either end of the wagon, one of which is accessible. The accessible washroom also has a changing table and device for warming milk bottles for infants.

Passengers with infants will find a bottle warmer in the accessible washrooms. So will passengers without infants actually, they just won't have much use for it.

Since all the cabins on the upper deck have their own toilet, the two washrooms are essentially only for the use of the lower deck passengers, and I never saw both of them occupied at once. Lights located next to the stairwells show whether the washrooms and shower are vacant.

Shower and Sleep

About two hours after departing Rovaniemi we pulled into Kemi, where I got off to stretch my legs walking the length of the train. Since we would take over 14 hours to make a trip that could be done in eight, there were multiple fresh air stops of over 15 minutes each, though most of these would come after I was comfortably in bed. The VR website shows when the train is scheduled to both arrive and depart, information which is also displayed on screens at each station. Seeing parts of a country I’d never travel to otherwise is a benefit of train travel, so I appreciated the chance to wander a bit when we were stopped.

Kemi station is one of several extended stops built into the schedule where you can get out and stretch your legs.

A few minutes after leaving Kemi I went to take a shower. The shower cabin is located at the end of each sleeper wagon, and is unlocked using a key card you’ll find in a marked slot in your cabin. A two-in-one shampoo/body wash is fixed to the shower wall, but towels are not available; you’ll have to either bring your own, or use the small hand towels left in each cabin. I, at this point, was grateful that both beds had been made up and supplied…two hand towels amounted to about half of a normal towel.

The shower is small, to be expected on a train. I appreciated the space being divided, with a door within the cabin blocking off the actual shower stall, stopping most of the water from splashing out onto your clothes.

The showers were sparse but clean—probably because I was one of the few foolish enough to bathe in ice water.

I less appreciated the water being ice cold. I only saw the shower show as “occupied” once during the trip, and I can see why…there was no heating whatsoever, and standing under the showerhead for more than a few seconds was deeply unpleasant. Still, it was more than I had access to during my last night train trip in Europe with ÖBB. This problem does make the upper floor en suite cabins much less attractive though, and I would not pay any extra for access to a cold shower. After enduring as much ice water as I could, I made my way back to my cabin and finished the job with some moist towelettes I kept from earlier flights with Polish flag carrier LOT.

Thankfully, a nice warm bed was waiting for me. At 6’ 3” I was able to stretch out fully without touching at either end, and I found the bed to be extremely comfortable, akin to any twin bed you’d find in small hotel rooms the world over. The track was smooth and I slept quite soundly for around seven hours, being woken up by an announcement at 06:38.

Breakfast must be pre-ordered, or you can head to the restaurant car for lighter options. Since we’d be arriving in Helsinki quite early, I opted to maximise sleep and eat later.

Helsinki was still mostly asleep when we arrived at 07:22 on a Sunday.

We arrived right on time at 07:22 to find Helsinki still asleep: most restaurants and cafés don’t open until 10:00 or 11:00 for Sunday brunch, and the only option in the station was a poorly-reviewed coffee shop. After dropping my bags at the left luggage lockers located on floor -1, I crossed the street for a coffee and croissant at Espresso House along with, seemingly, half of the passengers on board.

Travel Tips

• Book early. Earlier than that. Early as you can.
• There’s no need to be at the station more than 20 minutes before departure, and you’ll be more comfortable anywhere else.
• Pack everything you’ll need for the journey—pyjamas, change of clothes, toothbrush, etc—in a small bag, and put your luggage under the bed right away to keep your cabin floor dry.
• In the same vein: bring a pair of travel slippers. Take your shoes off outside the cabin to avoid bringing in snow and ice.
• Pay close attention to the cabin you book. Opt for the newer two-bed cabins if travelling solo or as a couple, and avoid cabins near the busy restaurant car.
• If you’re travelling in winter, the added cost for access to a private ice-cold shower isn’t worth it.
• Sunset comes early in the winter: most of your trip will be in darkness. Bring a book or some cards to pass the time, and enjoy the gentle swaying of the train.
• The cabin walls are very thin. Finns are a civilised bunch, and I had no issues with noise—but if you’re a light sleeper, bring earplugs just in case.

Final Thoughts

Despite the bad station and cold shower, I enjoyed my time aboard VR’s night train. Cabins were well-designed, the bed was comfortable, track smooth, and the padded schedule enabled me to get a full night’s sleep before arriving early in Helsinki.

Dynamic pricing probably means I won’t take this trip again. I appreciate the flexibility of booking closer to my travel dates, and for this popular service, the prices charged even months ahead are absurd. I lucked out finding a reasonable fare, but had I left it even a day later, I’d have flown both ways.